Bee-friendly plants and how to help pollinators

You do not need to rewild an entire field to make a difference. A thoughtfully planted container on a balcony, a patch of lawn left to flower, or a border filled with the right plants can provide meaningful food and shelter for bees, butterflies, hoverflies and other pollinators.

Why pollinators matter and what threatens them

Bees — including honeybees, bumblebees and the many hundreds of solitary species — are among the most important creatures on the planet. They pollinate a large proportion of the food crops humans grow, from fruits and vegetables to nuts and oilseeds, as well as a vast range of wild plants that other animals depend on. Hoverflies, moths, butterflies and beetles also play significant pollination roles, often overlooked.

Across much of the world, pollinator populations have declined markedly over recent decades. The main drivers are habitat loss (the disappearance of flower-rich meadows, hedgerows and field margins), pesticide use — particularly insecticides applied at scale — disease and parasites, and the effects of a changing climate that disrupts the timing of flowering and insect emergence. Gardens collectively represent a very large area of potential habitat, which is why individual gardeners can make a genuine collective difference.

Plant for a long flowering season

The single most important principle for pollinator gardening is continuity: making sure there is always something in flower, from the first warm days of late winter and early spring right through to late autumn. Many gardens are brilliant in midsummer but have very little to offer at the start and end of the season, when early bumblebee queens are searching for food after winter, or late-flying species are trying to build up reserves.

• Think of your garden in seasonal blocks: early (late winter to early spring), mid-season (late spring through midsummer) and late (late summer through autumn).
• Aim to have at least two or three plants in flower in each block, so that even if one plant finishes early, another takes over.
• Some plants bridge blocks — lavender, for example, can flower from early summer well into autumn in many climates.
• Group plants in clusters of the same species rather than scattering single specimens across a bed; this creates a more efficient and visible foraging patch for pollinators.

Choosing the right plants

Not all flowers are equally useful for pollinators. There are a few key principles:

• Favour native and locally well-adapted species. Native plants have co-evolved with local pollinators over long periods, and many specialist bees are entirely dependent on specific plant genera — some solitary bees only collect pollen from one or a few plant families. Check with a local wildlife trust, native plant nursery or pollinator conservation organisation for regionally appropriate plant lists; they vary enormously between continents, countries and even regions. See our native plants guide for broader guidance on choosing and sourcing native species.
• Choose single flowers over double. Double-flowered cultivars — bred for extra petals — typically have reduced or inaccessible pollen and nectar, making them far less useful for pollinators despite their decorative appeal. Whenever possible, choose the single-flowered species or cultivar.
• Include plants with different flower shapes. Different pollinators access different flower structures. Flat or open flowers (like umbellifers — carrot family — or single daisies) serve a very wide range of insects including hoverflies and short-tongued bees. Tubular flowers are reached by long-tongued bumblebees and butterflies. A mixture gives you the broadest ecological benefit.
• Look for the RHS Plants for Pollinators logo or equivalent regional endorsements when buying plants — many garden centres and nurseries now label pollinator-friendly varieties.

What to plant for each season

The following examples are offered as starting points in general terms. Availability and suitability vary by region and climate — always check local pollinator plant guides for the most appropriate choices for your area.

• Early season (late winter–early spring): Early-flowering trees and shrubs such as willows and hazels are critical for newly emerged queen bumblebees. Crocuses and other early bulbs provide accessible pollen. Winter heathers, lungwort (pulmonaria) and native violets are well-regarded early plants in many temperate regions.
• Mid-season (late spring–midsummer): This is when most garden flowers bloom, and pollinator diversity is highest. Borage, phacelia, catmint (nepeta), alliums, single-flowered roses, foxgloves, and native wildflowers such as clovers, vetches and knapweeds are widely valued across many regions.
• Late season (late summer–autumn): This period is often neglected. Late-flowering plants such as ivy (an outstanding source of late nectar and pollen in many regions), asters, sedums (now reclassified as hylotelephium), single-flowered dahlias, toadflax, and verbena are valuable for pollinators building winter reserves or emerging late in the season.

Avoiding pesticides on flowering plants

Beyond avoiding sprays on flowers, reducing overall pesticide use in the garden has wide-ranging benefits. Many insects that gardeners consider "pests" are also food sources for birds and other beneficial species. A garden with a functioning ecosystem — where predators and prey are in balance — tends to be more resilient than one managed with repeated chemical inputs.

Water, bare ground and nesting

Food is not enough on its own. Pollinators also need water, safe nesting sites, and places to overwinter.

• Water: A shallow dish with pebbles or marbles placed in it gives bees somewhere to land and drink without drowning. Change the water regularly to prevent disease.
• Ground-nesting bees: The majority of solitary bee species nest in the ground. Bare or sparsely vegetated, undisturbed soil — particularly on a sunny, south-facing slope — is critical habitat that most gardens completely lack. Leave a patch of soil bare, or create a raised bank of sandy soil in a sunny spot.
• Bee hotels: These benefit cavity-nesting solitary bees such as red mason bees and leafcutter bees. Use tubes of varying internal diameters (between 2mm and 10mm) made from natural materials; bamboo sections and paper tubes work well. Site the hotel in a sunny spot, ideally facing south-east, at least a metre off the ground and sheltered from heavy rain. Clean or replace tubes each year to prevent parasite and disease build-up.
• Leave stems standing: Many solitary bees and other beneficial insects overwinter in hollow or pithy plant stems. Rather than cutting everything back in autumn, leave sturdy stems standing until late spring.

Small spaces and container pollinator pots

A garden is not required. A balcony, a window ledge, a roof terrace — any outdoor space with some sunlight can support pollinators meaningfully. Container planting for pollinators works best when you think about a mini flowering season in a single pot or group of pots.

How to plant a pollinator container

1. Choose a pot that holds decent compost volume. Larger containers dry out less quickly, which reduces the stress on plants and means longer, more reliable flowering. At least 30–40 cm diameter is a useful minimum for most flowering perennials.
2. Use good-quality, peat-free compost. Peat extraction damages important habitats; peat-free composts are now widely available and work well for most container plants. Mix in a little grit or perlite for drainage.
3. Choose single-flowered plants that span a range of flowering times. For a temperate climate balcony, a combination of a lavender for mid-season, a catmint or marjoram for bridging, and a late-flowering sedum or aster gives a good spread. Adjust for your climate and check local pollinator plant lists.
4. Plant in groups of the same species where container size allows rather than mixing lots of single specimens. A small cluster of the same flower is more visible and efficient for pollinators than scattered individuals.
5. Water consistently — containers dry out quickly in warm weather. A moisture-retaining mulch on the surface (fine bark, stones or even shells) reduces water loss. Do not overwater to the point of waterlogging, which stresses most pollinator plants.
6. Deadhead regularly to extend the flowering period, but leave some seed heads at the end of the season for birds and to allow the plant to self-seed where appropriate.

Let the lawn and weeds flower

One of the easiest and most effective things you can do for pollinators costs nothing and requires no planting at all: simply let parts of your lawn and garden grow a little longer, and allow so-called "weeds" to flower before cutting them back.

• Clover and dandelions are among the most valuable early pollinator plants in many parts of the world — and they arrive on their own if you let them.
• A simple approach is to leave a strip or patch of lawn unmown from spring onwards, cutting it back once in late summer or autumn. This allows a range of native grasses and wildflowers to flower and set seed.
• If you want a more managed look, try a "mow high" approach — keeping your mower at its highest setting encourages clover and low-growing wildflowers without the need for a dedicated wild patch.
• See our lawn alternatives guide for further ideas on transforming grass-heavy areas into productive wildlife habitat.

Your pollinator garden checklist

• Plant at least one early-season, one mid-season and one late-season flowering plant.
• Swap double-flowered cultivars for single-flowered alternatives where possible.
• Stop using pesticides on or near flowering plants.
• Set out a shallow dish of water with pebbles for bees to land on.
• Leave a patch of bare ground or sparse vegetation in a sunny spot for ground-nesting bees.
• Install a bee hotel with tubes of varying diameters in a sunny, sheltered spot.
• Leave some plant stems standing over winter.
• Let a patch of lawn or garden grow long enough to flower before cutting.