How to make your clothes last longer

Textiles take water, land, energy and labour to produce. You don't need to overhaul your wardrobe — you need to look after what you have. Most clothes fail early because of how they're washed and dried, not because they're worn out.

Wash less and wash cool

Washing is the single biggest cause of premature garment wear. Every cycle loosens fibres, fades colour and shrinks fabric a little. The goal is to wash only when clothes actually need it — not out of habit.

• Spot-clean first. A small mark on a jumper doesn't require a full wash. Dab with a damp cloth and a tiny drop of detergent, then let it air dry. Done.
• Air out between wears. Hang jeans, jackets, knitwear and trousers on a peg or hook for a few hours after wearing — fresh air removes odour far better than most people expect. Many items need washing only every five to ten wears.
• Wash in cold water. A 30°C (86°F) or cold cycle is gentler on fibres and colours, uses less energy, and — with a good modern detergent — cleans just as effectively as warmer washes for everyday dirt and body oils.
• Use a gentle detergent. Less is more; excess detergent leaves residue that builds up and damages fabric. Use the minimum recommended amount.
• Use a microfibre-catching laundry bag for synthetics. Polyester and nylon fleece shed tiny plastic fibres every wash. A fine mesh bag (such as a Guppyfriend-style bag) catches a large proportion of these before they reach the water system, and it also protects delicate items from the drum.
• Turn dark and bright clothes inside out. This protects the outer surface from friction and keeps colours looking new much longer.
• Choose a gentle or delicate cycle and a lower spin speed for anything you want to keep looking its best. High-speed spinning stresses seams and embellishments.

Dry gently

Heat is clothes' enemy. Tumble dryers are rough on fabric — the heat weakens fibres, causes shrinkage and wears out elastic quickly. The lint you pull out of the filter is literally your clothes disintegrating.

• Air-dry whenever you can. Hang clothes on a line or a drying rack — indoors in winter, outdoors in good weather. It costs nothing and is the kindest option for almost every garment.
• Reshape knits while damp. Jumpers, cardigans and any stretchy knitwear should be dried flat on a clean towel or a mesh drying rack, reshaped to their original dimensions, rather than hung on a line (which stretches the shoulders).
• If you do use a tumble dryer, use the lowest heat setting that gets the job done, and remove clothes while still slightly damp to finish air-drying. This is easier on fabric and reduces ironing.
• Avoid over-drying. Bone-dry clothes from a tumble dryer are more damaged than clothes dried just to the point of being wearable.
• Iron on the correct temperature for the fabric. Use a pressing cloth between the iron and delicate fabrics to protect the surface.

Store well

Good storage protects clothes from moths, moisture and deformation between wears.

• Fold knits, don't hang them. Jumpers, cardigans and heavy knits hung on hangers stretch and distort over time. Fold them and stack in a drawer or on a shelf.
• Use proper hangers for structured clothes. Jackets, blazers and shirts keep their shape on wooden or contoured hangers. Wire hangers leave marks and misshape shoulders.
• Keep clothes clean before storing. Moths are attracted to body oils and food residue on fabric, not the clean fabric itself. Wash or air items thoroughly before putting them away for a season.
• Deter moths naturally. Cedar blocks or balls in wardrobes and drawers repel moths without chemicals (replace or sand lightly every year to refresh the scent). Lavender sachets work similarly. Seal seasonal woollens in a breathable cotton bag or a clean ziplock bag when not in use.
• Avoid plastic garment bags for long-term storage. They trap moisture and can cause fabric to yellow. Use breathable cotton covers instead.
• Don't store damp clothes. Even slightly damp items can develop mould or mildew. Always make sure clothes are fully dry before folding or hanging.

Repair the basics

A few simple skills keep clothes out of the bin for years. You don't need to be a tailor — the basics take minutes to learn and just a needle, thread and scissors.

How to sew on a button

1. Thread the needle with about 50 cm (20 inches) of thread that matches the garment. Pull the thread through until both ends are equal, then tie a knot at the end.
2. Mark the spot where the button should sit — use the buttonhole as a guide, or match the placement of the others.
3. Push the needle up through the fabric from the wrong side, through one hole of the button, then back down through the opposite hole and through the fabric.
4. Repeat six to eight times through each pair of holes, keeping the stitches firm. For a four-hole button, do three to four stitches per diagonal pair.
5. Wind the thread around the stitches between the button and fabric two or three times to form a short shank — this gives the button room to move through the buttonhole without straining.
6. Push the needle through to the wrong side of the fabric and tie off with two or three small stitches through the existing thread. Snip the thread close.

Other quick repairs worth knowing:

• Fix a hem. Use a slip stitch (invisible from the outside) or iron-on hemming tape for a no-sew fix. Both work on trousers, skirts and dresses.
• Patch a hole or worn area. Iron-on patches (available at haberdasheries and online) take under two minutes. For a more durable repair, hand-stitch a patch of matching fabric to the wrong side of the garment over the hole.
• Darn a sock or knit. Thread a needle with matching yarn, weave horizontal threads across the hole, then weave vertically over and under to create a small woven patch. It's easier than it sounds.
• Fix a stuck zip. Run a pencil tip, a candle stub or a small amount of beeswax along the teeth, then work the zip gently up and down.
• Re-sew a seam. If a seam is coming apart, turn the garment inside out and machine- or hand-stitch along the original seam line with a short stitch length.

Remove stains promptly

The faster you treat a stain, the easier it comes out. Left to set, many stains become permanent.

• Blot, never rub. Rubbing pushes the stain deeper into the fibres and spreads it. Use a clean cloth or paper towel and press gently, working from the outside of the stain inward.
• Cold water for protein stains. Blood, egg, milk and sweat are protein-based — hot water cooks the protein into the fabric and sets the stain permanently. Rinse immediately with cold water.
• Treat oil and grease by sprinkling with cornstarch or bicarbonate of soda to absorb the grease, leaving it for 10–15 minutes, then brushing off before treating with a little washing-up liquid before laundering.
• Red wine and berry stains: blot up as much as possible, then pour cold sparkling water or still cold water directly onto the stain to dilute it before treating.
• Check the stain is gone before tumble drying — heat sets stains permanently. If the mark is still visible after washing, treat again and air-dry.

Shoe and accessory care

Footwear and accessories that are looked after last many times longer than neglected ones.

• Clean shoes after each wear — brush off dirt before it works into the material. A soft brush for suede, a damp cloth for leather and canvas.
• Condition leather regularly. A small amount of leather conditioner every few months keeps leather supple and prevents cracking. Shoe polish protects and restores colour.
• Use shoe trees in leather shoes to hold their shape and absorb moisture between wears. Cedar shoe trees also deter odour.
• Waterproof before wet weather. A spray-on waterproofing product protects leather and fabric shoes from water damage and salt stains.
• Rotate your shoes. Wearing the same pair every day without rest breaks down the cushioning and structure faster. Alternating two pairs significantly extends both.
• Get the soles re-heeled when they show wear — it's cheap and easy for a cobbler, and far less expensive than replacing the whole shoe.
• Clean bags and belts as you would leather shoes. Store bags stuffed with tissue paper to hold their shape when not in use.

Buy better and buy less

When you do need something new, a few principles make a real difference to how long it lasts.

• Buy for fit and quality, not just price. A well-fitting garment gets worn; an ill-fitting one sits in the wardrobe. Check the seams, the weight of the fabric, and the quality of the fastenings before you buy.
• Read the care label before purchasing. If the label says "dry clean only" and you won't do that, the garment won't get the care it needs.
• Consider second-hand first. Charity shops, clothing swaps, and resale platforms offer quality clothing — often better quality than equivalent new fast fashion — at a fraction of the price and environmental cost.
• Choose natural fibres where possible. Wool, linen, cotton and hemp are generally more durable and repairable than synthetics, and don't shed microplastics in the wash. Well-made synthetics still have their place (performance wear, waterproofs), but natural fibres are easier to care for and repair.
• Buy versatile pieces that work with what you already own, not trendy one-season items that won't combine with anything else.

Donate, swap or recycle textiles responsibly

When clothes genuinely reach the end of their useful life with you, there are better options than the general bin.

• Donate what's wearable. Charity shops, shelters, and community clothing banks accept clean, wearable items. Check first what each takes — some don't accept heavily worn items.
• Try a clothing swap. Community swaps and online swapping groups let you refresh your wardrobe without money or new production.
• Repurpose at home. Old cotton T-shirts make excellent cleaning cloths and dusters. Worn-out socks become polishing rags. Fabric scraps patch other garments.
• Use textile recycling bins for items too worn to donate. Many supermarkets, clothing retailers and councils provide these. The fibres are processed into insulation, rags or new yarn — not a perfect solution, but far better than landfill.
• Brand take-back schemes. A growing number of clothing brands accept old items (their own and sometimes others') for recycling or resale. Look for these programmes when you're next shopping.

Your clothing care checklist

• Air out clothes after wearing before deciding they need a wash.
• Switch your next wash to 30°C or cold — test it for a month.
• Reshape and dry any knitwear flat rather than in the dryer.
• Put cedar blocks in your wardrobe to protect woollens.
• Fix one small repair this week — a loose button, a trailing hem.
• Treat any stains cold and promptly before they set.
• Clean and condition your most-worn shoes before next week.
• Before your next clothes purchase, check second-hand first.